Introduction Ornamental Grasses have long been featured in garden landscapes, but they have become increasingly popular in recent years for the beauty, movement, and sound they provide. They are also valued for their ability to withstand both wet and drought and for their low maintenance requirements. The fast growing foliage grows in clumps and can vary from yellow to bronze, from red to blue. Because they are pollinated by the wind, they do not attract bees. A recent University of Minnesota winter hardiness study of 165 ornamental grasses found 85 that can be grown in Stevens County, USDA Zone 4a.
Site Light – Most ornamental grasses prefer full sun while some will tolerate light or full shade. Open, windy areas do not present a problem for most grasses.
Soil –Ornamental grasses usually do best in soil that is high in organic matter, but not overly fertile. Most prefer even moisture. Good drainage is crucial because soil compaction from foot traffic on wet soil presents problems.
Planting When – Although planting may occur throughout spring, summer, and early fall, it is ideal in colder climates to plant bare root stock in spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Potted plants should be planted in the spring after danger of frost has passed. If necessary to plant in fall, potted plants should be well-rooted and allowed a least one month’s growth before the onset of winter.
How – Prepare for planting by working hummus into a 9” radius around the hole. The width of the hole should be about 1½ times the spread of the roots. For bare root plants, remove from the package immediately, trim damaged roots, and soak overnight. Make a cone of soil in the hole’s center and spread the roots out over the cone. Cover the roots with soil until the growing points are slightly below the soil level. Water thoroughly and fertilize with a starter solution (read and carefully follow the starter fertilizer directions). Potted plants should also be soaked in their container and left to drain overnight. Remove them carefully from the pot and plant so the soil from the pot is level with the ground soil. Water thoroughly and fertilize with a starter solution.
Spacing – Small varieties are planted about 1’ apart while large varieties require 3-5’. A good rule of thumb is to space plants equal to their mature height so a plant that grows 4’ tall is spaced 4’ apart.
Care Watering – Ornamental grasses rarely need irrigation except during extreme drought or when being grown in sandy soil. However, they will do best when the soil is kept evenly moist. The rolling inward of the edges of its leaves is a good indicator that it needs to be watered.
Mulch – The base of the plant may be surrounded with 2” of mulch as the soil warms up in the spring.
Fertilizer – Fertilization is not necessary because over fertilization can cause grasses to become floppy. If fertilizing, use a small amount of starter fertilizer as the new growth emerges in the spring and water thoroughly to dissolve the granules. Do not fertilize the rest of the season.
Weeding –It is imperative to eliminate all weeds from the site before planting ornamental grasses. Undesired grasses may overtake the new planting and prove difficult to control. Mulching will aid weed control.
Deadheading –Do not deadhead ornamental grasses whose seeds heads are showy, but consider deadheading those with a tendency for self-seeding. Grasses add form and texture to the landscape in winter so do not cut them back in the fall. Instead, cut them to the ground in late winter or early spring each year before new growth begins. Inability to cutback old growth in spring impedes new growth and results in an unattractive plant. Pruning shears or electric trimmers are sufficient for small areas; large areas may be burned if permitted and supervised.
Winter Protection – The hardiest ornamental grasses do not need winter protection when mature. When plants are young, or when tender varieties are used, cover them with 6” of mulch once the ground is permanently frozen.
Dividing – Ornamental grasses do not require maintenance through division except when the center of the plant dies. Renew the plant in colder climates by digging it up in the spring just as it shows signs of growth. Wash away all soil from the roots and cut out the center of the plant. Cut the outer portion of the clump into sections making sure each section has healthy roots with at least 5 stems. Immediately replant the new divisions as you would a new plant.
Problems Insects – One of the benefits of ornamental grasses is that they are rarely bothered by insects in colder climates.
Diseases – Diseases in ornamental grasses are not common. Rust may be observed in particularly wet, humid years. Adequate spacing and removal of infected leaves helps control rust. Crown and root rot may occur in poorly drained soils.
Additional Information For more information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension Service Consumer Horticulture webpage at http://www.extension.umn.edu/ConsumerHort/
Sources Ornamental grasses may be purchased at local garden centers and nurseries or through mail order sources. Mail order sources may offer more variety, however, local sources are more likely to supply native plants more adapted to local growing conditions.
Thank you to the individuals and businesses who have contributed to the Ornamental Grasses Display by donating plant materials, time, or funding. This is informational only and does not represent an endorsement by the University of Minnesota
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Scientific name/common |
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Height |
Origin |
Season of interest |
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Comments |
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Festuca cinerea ‘Solling’ solling blue fescue |
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8-10 in. |
Europe |
Year-round |
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Forms a dense, fine textured mound of short glaucous blue or blue-green foliage that retains some of its color through the winter. ‘Solling’ has been selected for its lack of flowers, which some people feel detract from the uniform blue appearance. |
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Festuca cinerea ‘Elijah Blue’ Elijah blue fescue |
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8-10 in. |
Europe |
Year-round |
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Same as above |
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Helictotrichon sempervirens blue oatgrass |
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2-3 ft. |
Europe |
Year-round |
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Forms a blue mound of foliage larger than dwarf blue fescue. More tolerant to heavy soil, but still prefers full sun and good drainage. |
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Carex muskingumensis palm sedge |
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2-3 ft. |
Europe |
June-winter |
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Attractive dark green foliage gross at right angles to the stem. Plants are yellow if grown in full sun. |
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Deschampsia caespitosa tufted hairgrass |
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3 1/2-4 ft. |
N. Hemisphere |
June-October |
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Large beige flowers make a soft mound of “hair” above almost evergreen foliage. Prefers moist and shady sites; can be difficult to establish in full sun. |
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Deschampsia ‘Bronzeschleier’ bronze veil hairgrass |
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40 in. |
N. Hemisphere |
June-October |
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Flowers are slightly darker than the species. |
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Leymus arenarius blue lymegrass |
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24-30 in. |
Europe |
June-November |
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Course blue foliage; irregular growth habit and invasive rhizomes. Can be used along lake or sea shores. Heavy soils contain rhizomes. |
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Arrhenatherum elatius ssp. bulbosum ‘Variegatum’ bulbous oatgrass |
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8-12 in. |
Europe |
June-October |
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Slow growing; tolerates poor and dry soils. |
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Carex flacca black flowering sedge |
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12-14 in. |
N. America |
June-winter |
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Blue green foliage; likes wet soil and moderate shade. |
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Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata’ variegated moorgrass |
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6-8 ft. |
Horticulture selection |
August-winter |
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Tall, open, spreading, pencil-thin stems atop basil foliage give this grass a unique look. Beautiful yellow fall color. |
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Schizachyrium scoparium little bluestem |
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3-4 ft. |
N. America |
August-winter |
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Predominant prairie species, blue-green foliage turning red-orange in September. Variable in form, height, and lodging. |
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Phalaris arundinacea varluteo-picta yellow ribbon grass |
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2-4 ft. |
Horticulture selection |
June-frost |
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Yellow and pink stripes on the new foliage, turns green by midsummer when it can be mowed or cut back to encourage new growth. Invasive. |
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Miscanthus x ‘Giganteus’ giant miscanthus |
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8-10 ft. |
Asia |
June-winter |
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Huge, bamboo-like, long course leaves; rarely flowers; slightly spreading clump. |
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Calamagrostis xacutiflora ‘Overdam’ variegated feather reedgrass |
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3-4 ft. |
Denmark |
June-winter |
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White flower in late June to early July with variegated foliage. |
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Calamagrostis brachytricha fall blooming reed grass |
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4 ft. |
Europe |
September-winter |
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Pink and purple flowers in September. Beautiful in fall. |
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Calamagrostis xacutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass |
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4 1/2 ft. |
Europe |
July-winter |
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Stiff, upright flowers are pink in July, turning beige by August. Wheat-like appearance. |
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Sorghastrum nutans Indian grass |
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4-6 ft. |
N. America |
August-winter |
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Very common in the prairie; beautiful yellow brown flowers variable in height, flowering time, and lodging. |
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Miscanthus sinensis ‘Grazella’ Japanese silvergrass |
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3 1/2-4 ft. |
Japan |
July-winter |
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Short, wide bamboo-like leaves; early flowering forms a dense clump. |
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Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’ silverfeather |
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6-8 ft. |
E. Asia |
September-winter |
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Clump-forming, large silvery white flowers. |
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Miscanthus sinensis ‘Purpurascens’ red flame miscanthus |
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4-5 ft. |
E. Asia |
August-winter |
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An excellent grass for cold climates; forms clumps; orange fall color. |
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Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’ malepartus miscanthus |
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6-7 ft. |
Horticulture |
August-winter |
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Showy red flowers. Yellow-orange fall color. |
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Panicum virgatum ‘Haense Herms’ red switchgrass |
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5 ft. |
Horticulture |
July-winter |
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Red-tinged foliage and red flowers. |
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Panicum virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’ heavy metal switchgrass |
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4-5 ft. |
Horticulture selection |
July-winter |
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Blue foliage in summer, yellow fall color. Has a stiff upright appearance and stands up in the winter. |
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Panicum virgatum ‘Rehbraun’ red-brown switchgrass |
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5 ft. |
Horticulture |
July-winter |
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Red-tinged foliage and red flowers. |
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Panicum virgatum switchgrass |
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3-8 ft. |
N. America |
July-winter |
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One of the predominant grasses in native tallgrass prairie. Quite variable in height, foliage, and flower color. Tolerates wet or dry soil. |
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Carex greyii gray’s sedge |
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30 in. |
N. America |
June-winter |
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Irregular growth habit, coarse foliage and conspicuous flowers. Good for shady naturalized wet areas. |
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Phalaris arundinacea ‘Feesey’s Form’ Feesey’s ribbongrass |
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2-4 ft. |
Horticulture selection |
June-frost |
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Nearly white foliage, pink or reddish in the spring. Not as invasive as yellow ribbongrass. |
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Molinia caerulea ssp.arundinacea ‘Windspiel’ windplay tall moorgrass |
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6-8 ft. |
Horticulture selection |
August-winter |
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Tall, open, spreading, pencil-thin stems atop basil foliage give this grass a unique look. Beautiful yellow fall color. | |