Introduction
Most gardeners have no trouble growing colorful flowers in sunny locations, but many find gardening in the shade difficult and challenging.  Before you start removing trees from your yard, consider creating a lush, calming shade garden with perennials.  Perennials are beautiful when in bloom, but usually do not bloom repeatedly or for long periods of times.  They die back to the ground each fall and reemerge again in the spring.  Some last a few years while others last much longer.

Site
Light – Before planning the garden, observe the site several times throughout the day to determine the type of shade.  There are different types of shade.  Most shade perennials prefer open to partial shade. Open shade receives sun all day, but air and soil temperatures are lower than in full sun.  An example is the north side of a building or the drip line of a tree.  Partial shade receives sun for only a portion of the day.  Filtered shade receives dappled sun the entire day as may occur under the crown of certain trees.  Dense shade, occurs in heavily wooded areas or under evergreens and receives almost no sun.

Soil – Shade perennials do best in well-drained, loamy soil that is high in organic matter and relatively free of tree roots.  The soil should be compact enough to support the plant, but loose enough to provide for good water penetration and drainage.  Never work wet soil because it will become compacted.  The best soil mix is 1/3 organic matter and 2/3 equal parts clay, sand, and silt.  A pH level of 6.5-7 is preferred; the soil can be amended with decaying leaves or peat. 

Planting
When – For shade perennials, wait until the danger of frost has passed.  

How – Potted plants should be soaked in their container and left to drain overnight. Prepare for planting by digging a hole much larger than the size of the pot.  Remove the plant carefully from the pot and plant so the soil from the pot is level with the ground soil. Cover the roots with soil until the growing points are just below the soil level.  Water thoroughly and fertilize with a starter solution (read and carefully follow the starter fertilizer directions).  Perennials should be transplanted in early spring prior to new growth.  Dig the new hole before moving the plant, keep the plant moist, and plant as you would a new plant.

Spacing – For the best display, plant perennials in groups of 3, 5 or 7.  Adequate spacing allows room for the plant to grow and provides good air circulation which reduces problems with insects and diseases.  Perennials have a wide range of spacing requirements.  Inquire about the spacing requirements when you purchase the plant. 

Care
Watering – Every perennial has its own needs, but in general shade perennials should be watered when the top 3 inches of soil has dried out.  Feel the soil and look at the plant to judge need for water.  Plant growth will be lusher and blooms more plentiful if watering is consistent.  Watering is vital both before and after applying fertilizer. Water around the base of the plant prior to using insecticides and fungicides

Mulch – In general, mulch as soon as it warms up in the spring being careful to keep the mulch off the stems and crowns.  To get perennials to self-sow, remove the mulch after the plant’s seedpods form and scratch the dirt to form a seedbed.  Mulching in winter is good for winter protection, but can also harbor insect eggs and disease spores.  If problems are evident, remove the mulch for winter.

Fertilizer – Perennials may need specific fertilization plans.  In general, most plants need nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).  A good basic fertilizer is 10-10-10.

Weeding – Weeds compete with perennials for moisture and nutrients and host insects and diseases.  Keep grass and other weeds out of your garden by edging around it each spring and managing weed growth by pulling weeds by hand, lightly hoeing, mulching, or using herbicides.

Staking – Some perennials need to be staked to provide support.  Staking is best done early in the season using a loose figure eight knot that won’t restrict growth to tie the plant to the stake.  As the plant growths, move the support ties higher up on the plant and stake.

Deadheading – Deadheading many perennials provides more flower buds later in the season, presents a cleaner looking plant, removes dead plant debris that can cause insect or disease infestations, and stops seed formation.  Seed formation takes energy from the plant that could have been used for growth.  Potted plants are usually sold in bloom.  Removing flowers from new perennials before planting creates a larger, healthier plant.  Pruning, pinching, and shearing also create bushier plants.

Winter Protection – Winter hardy perennials may not need protection.  If providing winter protection, remove all dead leaves and stems before mulching.  Apply winter mulch consisting of whole leaves, straw, or pine needles when the ground is permanently frozen.  Remove the mulch in spring.

Dividing – Most perennials form clumps that can be divided through a process known as crown division.  Generally, the best time to divide perennials is in the spring as new growth emerges. To divide, dig up the plant, cut out the its center, slice the outer portion of the plant into sections containing at least three shoots, and replant the new divisions immediately as you would a new plant. 

Problems
Recommendations for pesticides change constantly.  To keep up with recommendations, obtain current information from the University of Minnesota Extension Service.

Insects – Before using pesticides, diagnose problems correctly and read directions carefully.  Replacing an infested plant is often more economical than a systematic use of fungicides and insecticides.

Diseases – The best defense against diseases is to select disease resistant varieties, purchase healthy, disease-free plants, space plants to provide good air circulation, water plants near their base, and remove weeds and all infected leaves and plants.

Additional Information
For more information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension Service Consumer Horticulture Webpage at http://www.extension.umn.edu/ConsumerHort/

Sources
Shade perennials may be purchased at local garden centers and nurseries or through mail order sources. Local sources may supply plants more adapted to local growing conditions, however, mail order sources may offer more variety. 

Thank you the individuals and businesses who have contributed to the Shade Garden by donating plant materials, time, or funding.  This list is informational only and does not represent an endorsement by the University of Minnesota. 

  

Genus/Common		Genus  Description		WCROC Display Variety
Aquilegia (Columbine)		Lacy green foliage, long-spurred pastel blooms last for weeks; excellent cut flowers (if using for cut flowers, cut when the first flowers open); attracts Hummingbirds; does well in any garden soil as long as it is moist but not overly wet; looks nice planted with late summer and fall flowering perennials or grasses that show when columbines are done.		‘Crimson Star’; a striking crimson color with a white petals; 18 inches tall.
Astilbe (False Spirea) Astible (False Spriea)		Attractive type foliage, broad range of flower colors and long bloom season, Astible’s play a key role in the creation of successful shade gardens.  Cultural needs; soils must be rich and evenly moist and incorporate organic matter at the time of planting.		arendsii ‘Erika’ grows about 2 1/2 ft. tall and blooms with long slender spikes of pastel pink flowers at midseason.  Attractive bronze foliage.  ‘Amethyst’ Magenta-amethyst color blooms, grows about 28 inches tall. thunbergii ‘Ostrich Plume’ salmon pink; unique drooping flowery plumes; 30 inches tall.
Athyrium (Japanese Silver Painted Fern)		The ultimate choice to create a peaceful, airy, cooling effect in the shady or woodland landscape.  The foliage is rich all season long and provides texture in the setting.  Ferns prefer rich soil and adequate moisture.  Virtually pest and disease free.  Plants crowns 1 to 2 inches deep.		nipponicum ‘Metallicum’ deep green fronds with a silvery sheen.  Height is 18 inches.
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart) Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)		Elegant, easy to grow mounding plants for shade or partial shade.  Prefers fertile, light soil.  Water during dry spells.  Heart-shaped pendulous flowers.		formosa ‘Luxuriant’ red flowers bloom all summer on 12-18 inch plants.  Ferny green foliage.  ‘Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart’ spectabilies ‘Alba’ drooping chains of pure white hearts.  Foliage goes dormant in summer.  Impressive.
Epimedium (Barrenwort) Epimedium (Barrenwort)		The chief assets of this group of perennials are their attractive foliage, slow spreading ground covers with tolerance of dry shade.  Best performance occurs in rich, moist soils.  They are very long-lived and should be left undisturbed except for the purpose of increase.		grandiflora ‘Macranthum’ large creamy white flowers.  Height is 12 inches. versicolor ‘Sulphureum’ dainty sulfur-yellow flowers.  Green foliage often speckled red and brown.
Heuchera (Coral Bells) Heuchera (Coral Bells)		Grows best in moist fertile soil; will not tolerate long periods of drought; prefers a neutral pH; appreciates peat or humus mixed into heavy soil; forms a mound; flowers bloom up above the foliage; picking the spent seed pods off will lengthen the blooming period.		‘Can-Can’ creates a tight ruffled mound; ruffles take on metallic silvers; stunning as it reflects the morning light; spreads slowly to a 16 inch ch. wide mound; white June flowers; 24 inches tall. micrantha ‘Palace Purple’ summer whitish flowers.  Valued for its distinctive mahogany foliage.  1992 Plant of the year.
Heucherella (Foamy Bells)		A cross between Heuchera and Tiarella; excellent for shady border, mass planting or rock garden.  Foliage forms a nice mound.  They require an evenly moist deep fertile soil.		‘Pink Frost’ nice frosted green foliage; pink blossoms; extended flowering period.
Ligularia (Golden Ray)				dentate ‘Desdemona’ yellow-orange daisy like flowers.  Bronzy-green foliage on upper side; purplish underneath.  Height is 40 inches.
Ligularia (Golden Ray)		Handsome, bold, decorative foliage with showy flower cluster. Does best in moist, humus, peaty or loamy soil, but will tolerate ordinary garden soil.  Requires space.  Useful dramatic accent in bed or border.		przewalskii very impressive yellow-gold spikes in early summer; large deeply serrated leaves makes this Ligularia unique from the rest.  It is not as sensitive to drying out and its foliage will hold up much better through-out the season.  Height is 4 to 5 foot.
Monarda (Bee Balm)		Aromatic mint-like foliage; likes a rich, moist soil; new hybridized forms are mildew resistant; flower heads attract bees, butterflies and hummingbirds; best if planted in the spring in colder zones.		didyma ‘Blue Stocking’ deep lilac flowers; 2 to 3 feet tall.
Phlox (Creeping Phlox)		Very shade tolerant, but in the north it also does surprising well in full sun if planted in a soil that does not dry out.  Creeping Phlox spreads by stolons to produce low mats of evergreen foliage and makes an excellent ground cover.		stolonifera ‘Bruce’s White’ or ‘Ariane’ is noted for its stems of pure white flowers highlighted by a tuft of conspicuous yellow stamens at their centers.
Physostegia (Variegated False Dragonhead, Obedient Plant) Physostegia (False Dragonhead, Obedient Plant)		Salvai-like flowers on graceful spikes; will grow well in any garden soil providing its not too hot and dry; flowers mid summer.		virginiana ‘Variegata’ the leaves on this 2 to 3 foot plant are irregularly banded creamy white.  Lilac-pink flowers appear in the fall but the real beauty of this perennial is its variegated foliage. virginana ‘Rose’ tall bright spike rose blossoms; 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pulmonaria (Lungwort) Pulmonaria (Lungwort) Pulmonaria (Lungwort)		This genus contains some of the finest spring blooming perennials, all of which combine well with early-flowering bulbs.  The common name derives form the former belief that the leaves were a cure for ailments of the lung.  Lungworts are easy perennials to grow and can be left undisturbed for many years.		‘Excalibur’ This new cultivar has striking silver leaves with dark emerald green margins.  The dramatic foliage is an asset in the shady landscape throughout the entire growing season.  The large blooms are rosy red and sit atop 12 inch stems in early spring.  This selection exhibits outstanding vigor and mildew resistance. longifolia ‘Roy Davisdson’ long narrow leaves; distinct mottled spots in leaves; pink flowers turn blue; blooms appear for several weeks in late April and May; eye catching. saccharata ‘Mrs. Moon’ interesting dark green leaves with white spots; pink flowers which turn blue as they mature; 12 inches tall.
Tradescantia (Spiderwort)		Useful as a cut flower; prolific bloomer from late June to September; not particular on soil conditions but does best in boggy soil; the flower cluster can be removed after the first flush for repeated bloom.		andersoniana ‘Zwanenburg Blue’ royal blue; 20 inches tall
Veronica (Speedwell)		Exceptional plants for June through September.  Compact habit.  Does well in any fertile, well drained soil.  Use in rock garden, border, as edger or groundcover and natural settings.  Good cut flowers.		‘Sunny Border Blue’ becoming popular because of its ever blooming characteristics; crinkled bright green foliage; deep blue flowers spikes; grows 18 to 20 inches tall.